Nikon F – this one is from late 1964

January 23, 2024January 23, 2024Chris and Carol 2 Comments

Nikon F
Nikkor-H Auto 2.8cm f3.5 pre-Ai
Nippon Kogaku Tokyo 1964 (late) body and Nippon Kogaku K.K. lens from around 1961 or 1962. The body was modified to accept the Photomic-T finder.
Classic Nikon at its best. I enjoy using this focal length over 24mm or 35mm, and with modern fast films, the f3.5 aperture is not an issue. On my Fujifilm X-T2 (APS-C Sensor), the lens has an effective focal length of 42mm.

The lens is from around late 1961 or 1962. The first lens in this style and focal length was serial number 301xxx, released in early 1960.

Mostly Nippon Kogaku caps. The Nikkor front cap is 52mm and is a bit newer style for this lens.

Thanks for stopping by, Chris

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Comments are always welcomed, as I’ve learned quite a bit from reader feedback. As always, thanks for stopping by, and while you’re at it, feel free to visit my camera shop at http://www.ccstudio2380.com (CC Design Studios hosted by Etsy). – Chris Whelan

Please respect that all content, including photos and text, is this blog’s property and its owner, Yashica Pentamatic Fanatic, Yashica Sailor Boy, Yashica Chris, Chasing Classic Cameras with Chris.

radioactive raccoon

January 22, 2024January 22, 2024Chris and Carol 2 Comments

This cute adolescent raccoon awaited a handout in a local grocery store parking lot. A reminder not to use the flash on my camera phone when photographing wildlife.

Thanks for stopping by, Chris

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Happy SUNday! – discovering the Contax RTS ‘Sci-Med’

January 21, 2024January 21, 2024Chris and Carol 2 Comments

Scientific/Medical ‘Sci-Med’ camera with a Real Time Winder both are from around 1977 or early 1978. No official documentation exists on this variant of the Contax-Yashica RTS (first model) released in 1975. It’s been referred to as the RTS ‘Fundus,’ but again, there needs to be a mention of why it was produced and for what purpose beyond the Sci-Med community to be able to accept that designation, in my opinion. Slight enhancements include a small raised collar around the sensitive magnetic shutter release button and a shutter speed lock button on the right side of the camera’s top plate (as viewed from the front). The shutter speed dial locks in the 1/60 position (electronic flash sync speed), and the button needs to be depressed to select another speed. The Real Time Winder was mated with this camera as they shared the curious ‘Registered Number U.S.A.’ sticker. Many unknowns exist about this limited production camera, and much misinformation is floating around. I hope to uncover some truths or, at the very least, present only factual info. If you have documentation concerning this Scientific/Medical version, please share it with me – advertisements, brochures, or mentions in the photographic press back in the day.

Most RTS cameras have degraded or peeled leatherette coverings as the adhesives and the slightly softer leather haven’t held up over the decades. This one has, for the most part. The RTS line (RTS, RTS II Quartz, and RTS III) all use lenses with the Contax/Yashica (C/Y) mount.

The Real Time Winder can shoot up to 2 frames per second (2 fps). Higher-speed motor drives and winders with speeds up to 5 fps were also available.

The JCII ‘Passed’ sticker is in a different position from where these stickers were usually placed on the RTS, which would be on the left side of the prism. I guess it was put here on the Sci-Med version because the ‘Registered’ sticker was placed on the prism (by the factory or the distributor?).

The baseplate is marked ‘Scientific / Medical’; otherwise, it’s not different from a standard RTS.

The registration numbers are different, but the winder and the camera body were together as a set when I purchased them.

Early magazine advertisement. Here, it incorrectly indicates that the Real Time Winder is capable of 2 1/2 fps. The manual has it at 2 fps.

Beautifully designed and highly functional.

The Contax-Yashica RTS, Real Time System, was jointly developed by Yashica and Carl Zeiss, with the design originating from Porsche. The camera features fully automatic through-the-lens electronic exposure control; select the proper film speed (ASA, ISO) and the desired aperture (f-stop), and the camera selects the appropriate shutter speed. It’s also a fully manual camera, with the user setting the shutter and aperture values. It was a camera I was initially interested in when I was looking to replace my first SLR, the Yashica TL Electro-X, in 1978 when I was stationed in the Navy in Japan. If I remember correctly, the Navy Exchange stores didn’t have a large selection of Contax cameras, so my choice quickly became the Canon F-1 over the Nikon F-2.

Here is my first Contax RTS, which isn’t the Sci-Med version.

I chose the Yashica ML 50mm f1.7 lens over the more expensive Zeiss T-Star (T*) lens.

Thanks for stopping by, Chris

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Yashica’s Strange Dental Camera

January 20, 2024January 20, 2024Chris and Carol Leave a comment

Yashica Dental-Eye III… is it worth another look?

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Contax RTS Serial Number(s)

January 18, 2024January 18, 2024Chris and Carol 3 Comments

In the Contax RTS instruction booklet, the baseplate pictured either has a “real” serial number or one “made up” by the marketing department. RTS models out in the wild don’t have a serial number that is easy to decode (date manufactured), but this one does, at least if you know how to read Yashica serial numbers. I interpret this SN as February 1975 (502), and its number is 166.

The original instruction booklet (dated 06/76) has an 8-digit SN.

My RTS baseplate has serial number 087024, which looks nothing like the serial number in the instructions.

Here is a baseplate from an RTS-Fundus Scientific / Medical camera. I see 091238. I don’t see a date code in there – do you?

Anyway, this is just a quick post to gather my thoughts. Do you own a Contax RTS first model? I’d like to see more serial numbers as a pattern may appear. Thanks for stopping by, Chris

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wordless wednesday

January 17, 2024January 17, 2024Chris and Carol Leave a comment

Thanks for stopping by, and have a fantastic day, Chris

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Ugh!

January 16, 2024January 16, 2024Chris and Carol Leave a comment

Fernandina paper mill (one of two on the island). It’s not a Chamber of Commerce view.

The top image was taken with my Fujifilm X-T2 and a 300mm Nikkor-H lens. The bottom photo was shot on my Galaxy S8+.

Thanks for stopping by, Chris

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Brothers from different mothers – Contax RTS and Fujifilm X-T2

January 15, 2024January 15, 2024Chris and Carol 1 Comment

Brothers from different mothers – the classic Contax-Yashica RTS (original model) and the Fujifilm X-T2. I find the weight and feel to be the same, and many of the manual controls I use are right on top of the T2. That could be why I was attracted to the Fuji in the first place.
In the world of modern mirrorless digital cameras, the T2 just feels and acts like an old-school SLR.

The Fuji features a sharp Fujinon zoom lens, and the RTS has a fast and sharp f1.7 Yashica lens. I enjoy the aesthetics of both cameras, and I often shoot with the half-cases attached.

Fujifilm got it right when they designed their T2 (and similar models), drawing on the successful designs and functionality from the past.

A better view of the lenses. I chose the Yashica lens over the much more costly Planer lens because, let’s face it, Yashica made both (maybe from a Tomioka design in collaboration with Zeiss). The famous T* coatings may be missing on the Yashica, but I doubt it. The T* mainly was a marketing exercise. Full disclosure – I’d take the Zeiss Planer in a heartbeat if money were no object.

I enjoy using my Fuji; it is my go-to camera whenever I shoot with my classic lens collection or when I need to test a lens before listing it in my Etsy shop or on eBay. It’s fast and easy, and the APS-C sensor has a 1.5 crop factor that “boosts” the focal length of every lens I use. See yesterday’s gorgeous 450mm shot below from my 300mm Nikkor-H lens.

Boeing 777 (likely) at over 30,000 feet over northeast Florida (not cropped).

Thanks for stopping by, Chris. Which is your favorite mirrorless camera? Are you a Canon or Nikon photographer? Has anyone tried the new Nikon Z cameras?

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Contrasts – Industrial Ugly

January 15, 2024January 15, 2024Chris and Carol Leave a comment

Amelia Island, Florida. Such natural beauty and then this.
Samsung Galaxy S8+
I purposely shot into the sun to catch the reflections in the tidal mud along the Amelia River.

Looking south along the Amelia River at one of the two paper mills on the island (this one since the late 1930s). The other mill is just north of this location and is not in this image.

Amelia Island is stunning – its natural beauty is diverse, and it is almost hard to imagine how pretty it is. Thirteen miles of sandy Atlantic Coast beaches splashed with warm and generally clean seawater. On the west side of the island is this monstrosity. The mills, for the most part, never stop spewing pollution into the air and, more than likely, into the waters. Here is an interesting article written by one of the island’s original families. https://fernandinaobserver.com/general/rayonier-and-container-in-fernandina-a-brief-history-and-reflection/

Thanks for stopping by, Chris

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Happy SUNday! – classic glass made new

January 14, 2024January 14, 2024Chris and Carol Leave a comment

The “easy” way to get a nearly 500mm lens. With a modern mirrorless digital camera, an inexpensive adapter, and a classic lens initially made in the film era, you have a super telephoto lens you may already own.

A Nikkor-H Auto 300mm f4.5 telephoto lens from around 1970 mated to my 2016 Fujifilm X-T2 mirrorless digital camera via a Fotodiox NIK-FX lens adapter.

The Fuji T2 uses an APS-C sensor with a crop factor of 1.5. So when attaching film-era lenses, simply multiply the lens focal length; here, it’s 300mm by the crop factor (1.5), resulting in a 450mm lens. More about crop factors can be found here https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/tips-and-solutions/understanding-crop-factor

The Fotodiox adapter I’m using here was purchased directly from them for under $30 (no affiliation). I use Fotodiox because they have an easy-to-navigate site that makes buying easy. Any third-party lens adapter maker will do so shop around. Some adapters can be expensive, so know what you want and need before overbuying.

Autofocus. In my situation here, my camera lens combination can no longer use autofocus, and any type of image stabilization is also lost (unless your mirrorless camera has built-in IBIS). So it’s back to old-school photography – manually focusing the camera and adjusting the aperture, ISO, and shutter speed to get the correct exposure – the fun stuff!